Strategies for Growing Fruit on the Oregon Coast

When you live on the coast, one of the things a gardener is told is "you can't grow fruit here."  Which is bunk. Here's what you need to know about growing fruit near the ocean:

1. Pay attention to microclimates.

Most gardeners know about microclimates, little areas of your yard or neighborhood that experience radically different conditions-- like late frosts in a shady corner of the backyard, and intense heat next to a west- or south-facing wall in summer. On the coast our microclimates are intensified, especially where it concerns the effects of wind. 

Your neighbor might be able to grow a certain thing very well, but in your yard the wind comes whipping around the corner of the house and destroys the same plant. So with this in mind, a fruit grower can succeed on the coast; however microclimates must be strictly observed and can be used to advantage.

2. Carefully choose your varieties.
It's tempting to visit the big-box market an hour away from the beach and select a robust fruit tree or shrub. This can be a big mistake. Likewise, that coastal supermarket whose fruiting trees line the sidewalk for a few weeks in springtime should be avoided. I've yet to see a Bing cherry succeed here.

In both cases, you are likely to purchase a plant that is ill-suited to this specialized climate. Average winter temps are warmer than inland, and cooler in summer due to the moderating influence of the sea. Many fruit trees require cold in winter to produce a good fruit set, and long, warm summers to ripen. Choosing varieties developed for production inland may just set you up for frustration. Click here for some of the edible plants that have performed well in my Oregon coast garden.

The solution? Get to know a nursery in your community, particularly if the owner enjoys growing food. They can advise you and obtain the right plants at the right time. Locate your nearest coastal extension office-- for my location, that's in Newport. They have loads of helpful information and may even hold a seasonal plant sale with the right varieties. Finally, seek out neighbors and garden clubs in your community for advice. There's always an expert nearby if you pay attention. Read more about my choices for fruit in these articles.

3. Provide shelter from wind.
The best wind screen for your new fruiting plants is permeable rather than solid. If the wind can be diffused on its way through, the damage on the lee side will be significantly reduced. A solid barrier can actually force the wind to find its way up and over, creating increased eddies and more damage. Knitted shadecloth stretched across a frame (pictured) or existing fence can do the job nicely. I've found 30% shade cloth to be ideal, and knitted holds up in high winds better than woven cloth. Secure it with zip-ties or strong clamps. On the Oregon coast, persistent wind comes out of the north in summer and strong, gusty winds out of the southwest in winter.

A related strategy is to plant a hedge on the north side of your garden to minimize the drying winds of summer. Use coast-adapted hedge plants like these.

4. Make necessary soil amendments.
Due to heavy rainfall, our coastal soils tend to be highly acidic.  Additionally, the sandy makeup in many areas is quick to leach nutrients. Adding lime to boost pH and compost for organic matter are commonly added as topdressing, but testing your soil is a good place to start. If you can't locate a place to send samples, or the wait time is too long, get a high-quality home kit like this one for basic measurements of pH (acidity/alkalinity), nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Correcting these major nutrients-- and choosing the right plants-- will go a long way toward growing a successful garden.

Coastal Landscape Planning: Hedges

Japanese holly hedge, neatly sheared

We might all dream of a place in the country with acres to spare between our house and the neighbor's... but the reality is that most of us live within view of each other.  Hence, hedges.

As a coastal landscape gardener and designer, a good share of my time is spent maintaining --and subsequently thinking about-- hedges. The usual motivation for planting a hedge is quite frankly, to shield one's eyes from the fellow next door and his laundry on the line.  Or perhaps to create a nice backdrop for colorful blooming plants.  They can also define the edges of adjacent spaces, creating outdoor "rooms."

Whatever the reason, choosing a hedge material is one of the more important landscape decisions.  First, planting a hedge can be a large investment, depending on the length and how large (instant) the plants are you want to purchase.  Some hedge plants are available from 1 gallon container size all the way up to 6' tall.

Some species are certainly cheaper than others, due to their popularity and subsequent supply by nurseries, but please don't let that be your guide.  The bigger investment will be in maintaining your hedge for years to come.  If the plant you choose is needy, requiring multiple shearing sessions per year, or poorly suited for the coast and needs babying... your "bargain" purchase at the big-box store may be anything but.

Based on my experience working in landscapes throughout Lincoln City, Depoe Bay and surrounding areas, here are my picks for coastal evergreen hedges.  Evergreen is usually preferred for year-round screening.

Wax myrtle at far left

Tall Hedges (5' tall or more, depends on variety)
Ceanothus impressus 'Victoria' - shiny evergreen leaves, profuse early summer bloomer, bee magnet.  Be sure you get the right kind, some are low groundcovers.  Ceanothus thrives on neglect, don't overwater.

Myrica californica or Pacific Wax Myrtle - great native, best where it can be unsheared but will take it, very attractive larger foliage than most hedge plants and birds like the fall berries.

Escallonia - most varieties, 'Pink Princess' common, 'Newport Dwarf' smaller.  Get ready to cut hedges, these plants grow like crazy on the coast and need frequent shearing annually.  Will outperform all others on the oceanfront.

Viburnum tinus in bloom

Viburnum - for example, V. tinus 'Spring Bouquet'.  Probably not ideal for oceanfront but highly adaptable.  Look for a future post on this vast genus.  Should be chosen for an unsheared hedge to highlight flowers and shape.

Rhododendron - often used as a very large, unsheared (please!) hedge where there is plenty of width for the plants to grow.  So many to choose from, and they grow magnificently on the central coast.

Low Hedges (4' or less usually, good for defining edges or hiding unsightly structures)

Hebe - another large collection to choose from, a favorite is 'Patty's Purple' on the coast.  Highly tolerant of coastal wind and drought, some with lovely blooms.  H. buxifolia is a good choice to stand-in for boxwood.

Salal - a champion native in our area, salal can vary from a groundcover to a medium hedge depending on its location and method of pruning.  Almost no work, tolerant of most locations on the coast.  Sun or shade.

Ilex crenata or Japanese Holly - another good stand-in for boxwood that is much more tolerant of coastal conditions.  Can vary from low hedge with gold foliage to tall highly sheared and shaped hedge.

Vaccinium ovatum or Evergreen Huckleberry - another great native with the bonus of wonderful fruit.  Lightly shaping this plant instead of hard shearing will deliver more fruit.  Takes well to most conditions, taller in shade, needs a little shelter from the oceanfront winds.

Final cautions:  Popular hedge plants include arborvitae, laurel and boxwood in the Willamette Valley.  They are cheap, available, and familiar.  I don't generally recommend them here, at least not within a half-mile of the sea.  Arborvitae tends to get "burned" on the ocean side, and soon becomes unsightly.  Boxwood does the same and tends to hold onto that hideous orange-leaf color on the coast,  instead of greening up in spring.  Laurel grows fine... but maybe too fine?  If you know how fast it gets out of control inland, imagine what it does here in our mild climate.  Use only if you have an estate-sized property and room for a giant green wall.